Gower Peninsula: Rhossili, Fall Bay and Kitchen Corner

I had the pleasure of visiting Rhossili on Tuesday, for the first time in over a year. I can't believe it's been that long. A number of things kept me away. First of all, I began suffering from the most hideous travel sickness, which ruined the last few trips I took to Gower. Then, we had the most appalling and relentless period of wet weather I can ever remember - we had heavy rain practically every day for several weeks. Then, I adopted a little rescue dog, who became very distressed when travelling, and I couldn't leave him home alone for more than 1-2 hours at a time. The travel sickness seems to have resolved itself, simply by me switching from opiate-based to anti-inflammatory pain killers. Sadly, the little dog I adopted had to be put to sleep less than four months after I adopted him. However, I adopted a little Shih Tzu just after Christmas - and although he huffs and puffs a little about getting on a bus, he soon settles down, and travels well.

Tuesday was a little chilly, grey and drizzly to start with, but by the time my cousin and I reached Rhossili, along with Jake, the dog, we were treated to blue skies and sunshine. I didn't have my camera with me on this occasion. I was recently mugged at knife-point, and am now reluctant to carry valuables with me. So the camera stayed at home. But I have images from a previous occasion, taken along the exact route I walked on Tuesday.

One thing I love about Rhossili beach, is the way the patterns in the sand shift - they're never the same two days in a row.




I had to keep Jake on his leash. Even though he's just a small dog, he showed an unhealthy interest in the sheep we met along the cliffs. Although he's too little to maul sheep, he could still scare them. It's still lambing season at the moment, and I would hate to be responsible for allowing my dog to scare a sheep into falling over a cliff, or aborting a lamb.

Jake

There was a strong breeze at Rhossili, but it was certainly nothing gale force. In fact, it was perfect. I love watching the white horses rushing ashore, something you won't see if the air's still. There were plenty of surfers and body-boarders around, taking advantage of the wind-whipped waves. Those unfamiliar with Rhossili should note that a strong wind can whip up here very quickly, at any time of the year. There is no large land mass anywhere between Rhossili and South America. The cliffs face the open Atlantic, and the winds can be unexpectedly cool, even at the height of summer. For that reason, it's always wise to carry an extra layer with you, so that you can keep warm, even in the summer, as the wind whips up lightning fast at times.






Ever since the TV gardening craze hit the UK, garden plants and designs seem to be growing ever more elaborate and exotic. I find the simplicity of our native wildflowers, and the way they'll appropriate any suitable nook or cranny to ensure their survival, far more appealing. Forget azaleas, nicotianas and cascades of multi-coloured blooms - just give me a lichen-covered drystone wall sprouting hawkweed instead. Although the hawkweed is yet to bloom at Rhossili this year, it won't be long before it does.






If you squint really hard at the following shot, you should be able to make out a few surfers along the shoreline of Rhossili Bay.


It must have been rougher at the top of Rhossili Down, than it was along the cliffs or at sea level. I had expected to see paragliders taking off from their usual launch spot, about two thirds of the way up, but I guess it was too rough for them.


Does anyone know if this fissure in the rock is natural or man-made? I wonder if any creatures sleep in there at night? Perhaps a badger or fox has made it their home?


The sea is often an incredible green colour, especially going towards Worms Head, but alas, my camera never seems to do it justice.


What's the history of Kitchen Corner? I'm sure I must have read it somewhere, but my mind has failed to absorb it. Does it have anything to do with the quarrying that went on along the cliffs a century or two ago? I've always been intrigued as to why there's a large tin shack and a rough-hewn little quayside, complete with its own stone staircase, in such a remote spot.




I was delighted, when we reached the old Coastguard hut overlooking the Worm, to discover that I was still pain-free and quite energetic. I decided to take my cousin, who was visiting from London, down to Fall Bay, as he's never been there.

Before long, we came to this rocky little valley, which at first, looked very treacherous. Closer inspection revealed some steep, but accessible tracks leading to the rocky shore below. However, given my intermittent and unpredictable balance problems caused by my arthritic neck, I decided to venture only a few metres down, although my cousin headed down a little further. Although there were no sheep around, I decided to keep Jake on his leash, in case he took a tumble off the cliffs.




Glancing back the way we'd just come, we were rewarded with this new and interesting view of Worm's Head. As much as I love the Worm, I've become rather sick of photographing it from the same familiar old angles, time and time again.


As we forged ahead, Wayne, my cousin, got his first glimpse of Fall Bay.


The last time I visited Fall, I was met with a chorus from these ladies, who greeted me like an old friend. "Turn the other way and enjoy the view", I urged them, but they just baa-ed back and carried on munching.


I'd forgotten what a charming little bay Fall is, with its neat, semi-circular shape. It reminds me a little of Lulworth Cove in Dorset.






I wish my camera had captured the striking visual effect of this rock formation, especially against the backdrop of the ocean. Better still, I wish I could stop blaming the camera for my own photographic inadequacies and inexperience. I really need to get over my fear of carrying my camera around with me, to try to get some better shots at Fall Bay.


I've always been intrigued by this collection of little boats, perched high and dry amongst the bracken on the cliffside. Anyone know whose they are and why they're there? There were even more there on Tuesday, as well as a few kayaks.




The fields near Fall Bay contained nothing more interesting than the remains of winter crops. Give it a few months, though, and there will be a swathe of golden flowers carpeting this field. Closer inspection will reveal nothing more exotic than the humble ragwort, but its visual effect, when viewed from a short distance, is stunning.


Does this amazing-looking rocky outcrop have a name? It must have been one heck of a volcanic eruption that formed this jagged peak, all those eons ago.


Wayne, Jake and I sat on this rocky outcrop overlooking Fall Bay, and enjoyed the late afternoon sunshine. Jake gratefully accepted some food and water, and had a little snooze. The last time I was here, I noticed a couple sitting on the jagged cliff, but I was more watchful of their restless red setters. These somewhat boisterous dogs kept making little forays across to where I was sitting, and I was getting more and more uncomfortable. Moments after I took these pics, the hounds suddenly tore towards me with great purpose, eyes blazing and tongues lolling, like something from the Hound of the Baskervilles.




I was mightily relieved when they sped right past, just a couple of feet from where I was sitting. However, my relief was shortlived. To my horror, they began worrying some sheep, snapping at them and driving them closer and closer to the edge of a sheer cliff. I immediately made the owners aware, pointing out that if the farmer came along, he would probably shoot the dogs first, and ask questions later. Fortunately, they were nice, reasonable people, who immediately brought the dogs under control.


Sadly, we could only spend a short time at Fall Bay, as we had to keep an eye on the clock. Had we missed our bus, we would have had another ninety minutes to wait. We passed through a wooden gate and followed a footpath, which skirted crop fields, en route to the village. The path was very muddy, and I almost slipped a number of times. As there were no sheep around, I let Jake off the leash for a little while. He ended up looking like a swamp monster, he became so caked with mud. But it was nothing a bath wouldn't fix, so I let him have some fun. We arrived back at Rhossili village in plenty of time, and had a soft drink in the beer garden of the Worm's Head Hotel, before heading home.